I’m going to be upfront about this – I don’t recommend this mod. This post has been sitting in my drafts for at least a year if not longer. Considering the time and effort to get things just right I don’t think it is worth the effort for a couple of reasons:
Caliper Placement (Lateral)
It’s really tough to get the placement just right as the STi/Evo pads are nearly the same size as the surface area of the 318mm LGT rotor. If you are a little bit off you will get pad overhang, which is the same problem people have with the CTS-V Brembos. If you don’t care about overhang, I would recommend the CTS-V mod instead. Also, some people have gotten the 326mm STi rotors to work, but the only people that say how they got the STi rotors to fit had the rotors machined down a bit.
There is quite a bit of material that needs to be removed from the caliper and the knuckle to get the caliper centered onto the rotor. I don’t think things are hazardous for daily use, however, in retrospect, I would probably use a spacer behind the rotor next time.
Evo Brembos can be had for around $300 shipped on eBay. Which is about half the price of the STi gold Brembos. I planned on painting the calipers anyway, so the color didn’t bother me. The use of LGT rotors cut down on the costs as well. 318mm rotors seem to be half the price of 326mm rotors.
On to the install.
Nasioc Thread Link – https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2179101
The calipers were in pretty decent shape. No stripped threads or anything. However the paint, at least on one caliper was peeling off on the back.
So at a minimum, the bubbled paint needed to be stripped down.
Also, since Evo Brembos have a smaller leading piston, as Evos calipers are mounted on the forward side of the knuckle (Subaru Imprezas mount on the rear), the calipers need to be swapped left to right. The crossover tube and the bleeders need to swap positions on the calipers as well since the bleeders will be at the bottom now.
One side disassembled no problem, but the other side the crossover tube seized to the fitting and got twisted up as I removed it. I did this mod before I did the ABS delete so finding fittings and lines that would work with the calipers was kind of a PITA.
Ready for paint.
I initially painted them red, with Grimmspeed Cherry Blossom Red as a base, but after the pandemic started, I changed the color to highlighter yellow.
Getting the caliper lined up was the most time-consuming part of this mod. As you can see in the pic below, the rotor is resting against the caliper. So you either need to remove material from the caliper or the knuckle; or in our case, both until the rotor is centered. The bolt spacing isn’t the same either, but it is close. Opening up the mounting holes on the knuckle all that is needed.
To center the caliper on the rotor, you basically need to remove material from both the knuckle and the caliper. There isn’t enough material to just remove from one or the other.
This is the point of no return. You will need new knuckles if you ever want to go back to stock.
Here you can kind of see me marking where I need to remove more material. It is basically trial and error.
For brake pad pins you need to use Evo pins. Finding OEM Mitsubishi parts is a chore. Nothing like Subaru. I eventually found pins from NAPA that worked. The STi pins will back out. Brake pads are the same as STi pads and the brake line bolts right up.
Overall, the brakes do work well. I would like to switch to an STi master cylinder with a larger bore for a better brake feel. I essentially have Legacy GT brakes front/rear with Brembos in the front. It’s a pretty odd setup but it works.
That said, I do not recommend this setup, haha!